May 7th, 2013 -- Day 4 -- Waters, of Lilies and Mud

On our last touring day in Cambodia we visited another temple outside Angkor area called Beng Mealea (literally meaning River of Lilies). The temple is about 90 minutes drive away from the city. A local guide who speaks good English offered himself and took us climbing and hiking all around the temple area. My friends commented that this was by far the best temple visit in our entire trip.

In the afternoon, we visited the Tonle Sap (known to me as the South East Asia's largest fresh water lake). To my disappointment, it was the dry season and we have to pay 20USD per head for the boat ride to see the muddy water of the river (and the lake). Also, once we were in the center of the lake, the boat drivers asked if we would like to do charity for the children of the lake, who have shown themselves to be very capable at operating a basin (for a boat) to ask for "donation". I did not have fun there because I was greatly disgusted by the thought that a once great kingdom had such failing education as the children believe begging to be a licit and prideful source of income.

We left Cambodia on the next day by an early flight.

May 6th, 2013 -- Day 3 -- of Kings and Religion

It costs 20USD for a one-day-pass to all Angkor area temples. There were too many for anyone to see in a day, so our Cambodian driver recommended the few major ones, and I embarked on my usual treasure hunt after details that may be missed by many.

We visited Prasat Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, Prasat Bayon, and Angkot Wat, in that order. While we expected a beautiful sunset at Angkor Wat, rain came near the evening and the sun hid behind clouds all the way till nightfall.

The temples and what I remembered of the driver's brief introductions implied that the ancient Kings of Cambodia were either Buddhist or Hindu. During their reigns, they highlighted only importance of their own religion. I recall the story of a Hindu king, while maintaining the main body of a Buddhist temple, made sure that all faces of the Buddha were removed (be it on statue or wall carvings).

The walls of the temple were carved with figures depicting daily lives of the Cambodian people during the time of construction as well as portraits glamorising bravery of the King and his troops at war. Such details amazed me while, at the same time, leading me to wonder why not many rulers of great kingdoms in the past are peace-loving. It puzzles me further that some of the kings were Buddhist, followers of a religion which teaches peace and respect for all life-forms.

Prasat Banteay Srei was recognised as an Angkor world heritage in 1992. Its stones were blood red, and made the sky seem bluer than blue.

Ta Prohm is famous because Tomb Raider filmed some of its shots here. I believe Ta Prohm's stones must have been white once, and its walls were lined with intricate carvings of floral and faunal patterns. This is also where we found Buddha carvings removed.

Prasat Bayon must have used the same stones as the Ta Prohm, as their colours are quite similar. The temple is famous for the many Buddha faces on top of its towers. Also, being one of the largest temple in the Angkor area, I observed that several temples in proximity were grouped together into one huge Prasat Bayon (although my observation may be mistaken).

Finally, the most anticipated of all is the Angkor Wat, where we expected to watch a breath-taking sunset, only to have spirits dampened by rain clouds and droplets. The famous temple was under repair (or renovation) during our visit, leaving the photograph less dramatic.

After Angkor Wat, we got the driver to drop us off at Pub Street for dinner and booked ourselves another massage session, before heading back to the hotel.

May 5th, 2013 -- Day 2 -- A Day on the Wheels

Most of Day 2 in Cambodia was spent on the bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. We took a 7:30am bus and arrived in Siem Reap at about 2:30pm. Add about half an hour to that, and we were checked in to our hotel in Siem Reap.

By then, we were hungry so (with the front desk's recommendations) we head straight for a Khmer Kitchen near pub street. After another round of coconut-milk infused meal, we walked to the central market. The shopping spree dragged on and joined with another round at the Siem Reap Art Center Night Market.

After an Angkor beer in pub street, we went back to the hotel and had the front desk order massage therapists for everyone. The Cambodian girls that came do not speak very good English, and were generally not very good at shoulder and body massage. We decided that we will look elsewhere for the other nights for massage therapist (Coincidentally, we found out which shop the girls really worked for). We turned in at near mid-night, with alarm clocks tuned early for the next day.

May 4th, 2013 -- Day 1 -- An Introduction to Cambodia

I think that, as you get older, you tend to think on your feet. My mind has been very active over the entire length of my first visit to Cambodia.

My friends and I spend our first day of touch down roaming the streets of Phnom Penh, allowing the country's history and cultures to sink in.

A Dark History

As many countries, Cambodia's people survived a dark age where people wake up every day feeling thankful for their lives and fearful of death. Unlike Malaysia (my dearest homeland), the pain caused during the darkest Cambodian history were not inflicted by an outside force, but a Cambodian.

During his ruling, Pol Pot executed a large number of his fellow Cambodians for, what it seemed to me, his own greed and fear (of being overthrown). In his power, he executed educated Cambodians as he believed that knowledge are demons that would possess his people. Under false accusations (usually of association with international spying agencies, CIA/KBS), he tortured his prisoners. After his prisoners break under the extreme torture and admit to their "crimes", they were sent to die at a mass killing field, along with their entire family: husband, wife, children, etc.

The museums at the Tuol Sleng S21 (a school converted into one of Pol Pot's "security offices" where he detained his prisoners) and the Cheoung Ek Killing Field (the mass killing field where many were killed cold-bloodedly, including babies) hangs on to an eerie sensation that could chill you to the bones. If, on the journey between the destinations, I had given a thought to what were on the minds of those that travelled the same route then, be it those trafficked from the S21 to Cheoung Ek, or those driving empty trucks on the reverse journey, I do believe that I might not have rested well on that night, regardless of physical fatigue. And if I had known beforehand that the monument tower behind me (that is about 500 meters away) actually houses remains of the victims massacred here in 1970s, I most probably could not have smiled at the time of the photo.

An Asian Culture

Histories appreciation aside, we spend a lot of the time in Phnom Penh eating and enjoying the city. Weaving in and out of lines on a tuk tuk, you will notice that the city itself is well-established. You might notice that streets are systematically labelled with numbers, and most the city is well gridded (an observation that is confirmed on discreet examination of a Phnom Penh map). The government houses are clustered near the bank where we stayed, and similar to many others, the city is tightly lined with short and tall buildings. However, you will notice that tuk tuk drivers ride less viscously compared to those in Bangkok, and the people move with grace and leisure all around the city. From there, you might feel relaxed, simply because no one else is rushing.

The royal palace is a world of hidden cultural treasures, although we got there a bit late and couldn't enjoy it to the max. Having similar religious influences, you will notice strong similarities in cultures of Cambodia and Thailand (The architectures of buildings and the symbiosis with respect between men and elephants). I think that Buddhism contributed to many parts of the Cambodian culture (the royal palace house many Buddha statues, including one made of solid gold and diamonds that weights 90Kg). While I think Buddhism may have lead to the serenity in their daily lives, one of our many drivers in Cambodia said that the leisurely manner of Cambodians might have been inherited from the French during their occupation.

The food here are unique. Khmer kitchens (Khmer is the Cambodian language and most eateries here like to call themselves kitchens) serve fruit (mango/papaya) salad that are similar to that in Thailand, tom yum soup and red/green curries that are creamier and less spicy, various stir-fries (with a hint of the Chinese) as well as western baked/grilled meat. The traditional Khmer soup reminds me of the Malaysia Chinese ABC. We adored the fish amok, which is essentially fish steamed with a special gravy (that may be different from kitchen to kitchen).

Also, as in Thailand, the markets here are just loaded with bargains, if you are into the kind of things they sell: hats, spectacles, scarves, shirts, trousers, shorts, skirts, dresses, slippers, shoes, purses, pouches, bags, fridge magnets, key chains, shot glasses, statues, paper weights, etc.

Filler blog post!

I've actually not finished the Melbourne (2010) daily blog, nor have I complete the Taiwan (2011) daily blog.

Since then, I've actually travelled to Australia's Gold Coast, Vietnam's Hoi An, Singapore and many many Malaysian destinations.

And since I'm planning to blog about my most recent trip to Cambodia, this is actually just a post to kind of defines the gap between then and now...